Agnone is in the last undiscovered region of Italy, Molise. Molise is also the youngest, until 1963 forming part of Abruzzi e Molise. Like a lot of southern Italy, the cuisine is very simple but the produce is of extremely high quality and the locals wouldn’t dream of eating anything not very fresh, seasonal, ripe or local!
Live and Learn Italian is not in fact, a language school, rather an immersion programme where our guests mix with the community throughout their stay. A daily Italian lesson, with qualified teachers, compliments visits to local producers and cultural sights of interest, film screenings, talks, and cooking, all in Italian. Our hosts are local people sharing a passion for their traditions, their produce, their heritage and most of all, their language. Agnone boasts a rich cultural heritage and is a perfect place to discover the real Italy.You will find so many opportunities to engage with the community, practice the language and enjoy life in this small but unique town.
We asked Helen to tell us why the programme Live & Learn in Agnone was crucial for her to learn Italian.
First thing you do when you arrive back in Agnone?
Wander up to the Caffe Letterario in the centro storico to see friends – like sisters Ilenia and Luciana who work there – and always have a welcoming hug and smile as they serve the first prosecco. Then I know I have arrived!
What advice would you give to a tourist?
liveandlearnitalian.com
Agnone is and has cobbled streets, passageways, fabulous views and dozens of small family-run shops. So wear comfortable shoes, have your camera in your pocket and just wander – it’s the kind of place that if you take a break on a town bench, someone will come and start chatting to you.
If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be?
Right at the end of the town there’s an old palazzo with breathtaking views over the valleys – worth waking up early to watch dawn break on the countryside.
liveandlearnitalian.com
Where else would you visit in the area?
Pietrabbondante is a pre-Roman archaeological site with small but spectacular ruins which you can explore in peace. And there are medieval walled towns such as Vastogirardi and Belmonte to discover. Personally, I’d make a beeline for one of the small family dairy farms to watch them produce caciocavallo and stracciata cheeses.
Earliest Agnone memory?
The immediate sense of welcome I felt from everyone I met has brought me back each summer – though this year I’m trying September for a change.
Best meal you’ve had in Agnone?
Too many to pick one in particular – the quality of the food is stunning. But maybe the most special was being taught to cook (stuffed zucchini and melanzane, vegetarian and regular) by Maria in her home and then eating every crumb with her family in the garden, by candlelight on a balmy summer’s evening.
If you could buy any building in Agnone, which would it be?
It would definitely be somewhere romantic in the old town But do you know what? I would rather just stay as a guest – the history of the place is amazing and I’d love to see it sustained and kept within local families.
What are your favourite late-night hangouts?
Agnone isn’t really a late-night place, but we sit as late as we like in Caffé Letterario drinking in the atmosphere and maybe something stronger…
What is your favourite Agnone discovery?
I know gelato is an Italian invention and found everywhere, but as it is in rich dairy country, the ice cream and cheese in Agnone are both truly special. Just visit one of the gelaterie or cheese shops selling local homemade produce and you’ll see what I mean.
Best advice for students of Italian
On every language holiday you get classes plus trips around the area. But the special thing about Agnone is the opportunity to talk to local people, and practice your Italian. No-one is bursting to try out their English on you, but they are so friendly and love to chat – and everyone wants you to enjoy their magical town.So don’t be shy!
First thing you do when you arrive back in Maremma, Tuscany?
Enjoy catching up with my host family and relaxing in the beautiful Tuscan setting. The house is on the top of a hill with a stunning view of the Tuscan countryside.
What advice would you give to a tourist?
Take day trips, guided when possible, to the many small towns and historic sites. Maremma is full of hilltowns, really worth a visit and with few tourists. Moreover many years before the Romans, Etruscan people settled here their villages and civilization. It’s like walking in the middle of history.
If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be?
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The Tarot Garden house which is a unique creation of art in a garden setting. Niki De Saint Phalle used to live in this house while working at this unique garden: even the bathroom is a masterpiece of art.
Best place for a romantic holiday in Maremma?
poggiobono.it
The seaside towns of Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole in Monte Argentario, with their beautiful beaches, history, seaside walks, specialty shops and great fish restaurants. In clear days you can enjoy the view on some of the islands of the Tuscan archipelago, including Giglio and Giannutri.
What would you do if you were the Mayor for the day?
Have a family festival with local music, with specialty foods and products, as we enjoyed in Magliano the very first day of our stay. There was an exhibition of the village band and the atmosphere was really great.
What is your favorite Maremma discovery?
poggiobono.it
The little hilltop town of Capalbio, where the views are beautiful from the parapet walls and the town has old world character.
What are your favorite late-night hangouts?
The fabulous home cooking and sitting outside under the Tuscan sky: from Virginia’s house you can see the Milky Way with the naked eye! It was unbelievable.
Best meal you’ve had in Maremma?
I can’t choose between the homemade pasta dishes, the local meats (wild boar as well) and cheeses (Pecorino Toscano), the pizza, or the fig and ricotta gelato!
If you could buy any building in Maremma, which would it be?
An old villa where I could grow vegetables, olives, fruit, and cork trees and surround myself with the serenity and culture of the countryside.
Best advice for other students?
Do a homestay. After 3 years of traditional language schools in Italy, I found the homestay to be the best way to immerse in the language and culture. Virginia always spoke with me in Italian and I really had the chance of improving my skills: it was a real full immersion language course.
The first thing you did when you arrive back in Mesagne and when you got up in Mesagne?
A wonderful meal with my hosting family on my late arrival. The next day I made it a point to visit the lovely people who own the fruttivendolo, the fruit and vegetable store. Getting to know them was one of the highlights of my first trip to Mesagne and then I visited the Centro Storico, the historic center, to breathe in the centuries old atmosphere of the place.
What advice would you give to a tourist?
At first glance, Mesagne may seem like a sleepy town, but there is actually quite a bit of vitality here, and two examples of this vitality come immediately to mind. First, on Sunday morning if you take a walk to the park in the center of town you will find it filled with people of all ages. It is a delight to watch the young families with children playing on the playground equipment, or the older children playing basketball or soccer. And don’t forget to sit on a park bench to engage one of the old men sitting there in conversation. I have learned much about the history of Mesagne by doing so. Second, Mesagne is transformed late at night on a Friday or Saturday. If you walk in or around the Centro Storico at 11:00 PM, you will find the streets filled with strolling people, and all the restaurants and bars will be filled with people sipping caffè, amaro or a delicious gelato.
If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be?
lacanto.it
I guess it would have to be il Castello. What an amazing building with a rich history. The local tour guide arranged by Michela, the owner of l´Acanto School, to show my wife and me around the castle. She was a wonderfully enjoyable and knowledgeable young woman who helped the castle and all of the Centro Storico come alive for us. A highlight of our tour was the photo that she took of us in the medieval style “phone booth.”
Best place for a romantic dinner in Mesagne?
It would have to be in a Trattoria nel Centro Storico. Their antipasto is unlike anything I had ever experienced. It is a meal in itself, comprised of at least a dozen little dishes prepared to order and served one at a time as they become ready. Each one is a morsel of a typical regional dish, served by one of three different and friendly waiters.
What would you do if you were Mayor for the day?
Two things come to mind. I would order flyers to be sent out to every school, library and travel agency in the world alerting people to the beauty of this gem of a city hidden in the heart of Puglia, and I would be sure to include a link to the “Happy Mesagne” song video. Second, I would declare a feastday to celebrate the people of Mesagne.
Earliest Mesagne memory?
The first day we spent in Mesagne. I decided to do a little exploring. I went into town and sat in the park to observe the older men sitting on benches and having animated conversations among themselves. It reminded me so much of the conversations older men have in the Italian American neighborhood in which I grew up. I enjoyed watching the children playing and seeing the people strolling by. It filled me with gratitude to be sitting there in the land of my ancestry.
If you could buy any building in Mesagne, which would it be?
I guess I would buy one of the houses in the Centro Storico. It is the heart of Mesagne, so to live there would be to wrap myself in the richness of the centuries old history and tradition of the place and close to the enoteca, a lovely wine bar, Michela brought all the students there one evening and we had a very enjoyable time.
What is your favourite Apulian discovery?
All the quaint and wonderful towns in the region: Alberobello and Locorotondo, Pollignano a Mare, Monopoli, Porto Cesareo and Gallipoli to name just a few.
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In addition, Lecce is a beautiful city with wonderful examples of Baroque art and architecture. Moreover, the many miles of seacoast are spectacular, and the Adriatic coast is so different from the Ionian. Finally, I have fallen in love with the ancient olive groves. Each tree is unique and magnificent in it’s own way, standing like a sage with deep wisdom to impart if only one would sit with it in quiet and solitude.
Best advice for students of Italian?
There are many Italian language schools in Italy. I attended two of them before finding l’Acanto. Michela is an excellent instructor and the other schools also had excellent instructors. Nevertheless, I have attended classes at l’Acanto two years in a row and I intend to return because of the quality of the relationship that Michela and her family offered me and all the other students as well. Having good relationships is important to me and I truly feel like I have a family in Mesagne.
First thing you do when you arrive back in Sorrento?
Go to Raki gelateria to get a Vanilla and Ginger gelato!
What advice would you give to a tourist?
sorrentolingue.com
Beyond the most popular activities (like daytripping to Capri, Pompei e Vesuvio and the amazing Amalfi Coast), I would suggest exploring some of the lesser-known treasures, like the Regina Giovanna baths.
If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be?
I would choose the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, one of the hotels on the coast, which has a gorgeous view of the bay as well as a spa! It’s an inspiring place!
Best place for a romantic holiday in Sorrento?
The Minervetta! According to the TripAdvisor Traveler’s Choice Awards for 2016, it was voted the Top Hotel for Romance in Italy.
What would you do if you were Mayor for the day?
Have a parade, like in the American tradition, to share this type of fun with the community of Sorrento.
Earliest Sorrento memory?
Christmas shopping on Corso Italia and admiring the ginormous Christmas tree in Tasso Square.
What are your favourite late-night hangouts?
In the summer, anywhere on Corso Italia is hopping with excitement. I tend to enjoy the Guaraccino Bar, which is down a little alley just off of Tasso Square, where there are always many locals.
sorrentolingue.com
Best meal you’ve had in Sorrento?
Is that a trick question? It’s all delicious, but my guilty pleasure is the Clooney burger and gourmet fries at Star Pub where I can chat with waiters and locals and practise my Italian.
If you could buy any building in Sorrento, which would it be?
Maybe Bar Syranuse, which is in the heart of Sorrento in Tasso Square and has a side looking over the passage down to Marina Piccola.
What is your favourite Sorrento discovery?
sorrentolingue.com
The Regina Giovanna baths – it’s a Roman ruin with a natural pool, which connects to the bay, and everytime I go, I’m speechless.
Best advice for other students?
Take advantage of your time in Sorrento. Go out and explore, meet the locals (they’re great), learn Italian,speak Italian and live like locals and have new experiences to remember for a lifetime!
First thing you do when you arrive back in Taormina?
The first thing that I would do when I return to Taormina is to visit my host family. They were my gateway into Taormina, and also Sicily, and Italy. The family provided me with help, open arms, AMAZING cooking, and a look into the culture of Sicily, that no other avenue could provide.
What advice would you give to a tourist?
babilonia.it
The best advice I can give to a tourist at Taormina is to stay away from the beaten path. So much of the charm of Taormina is lost through the commercialized aspect of it (Corso Umberto). Some of the most wonderful places you can find in Taormina are off the main road, so just walk around, and see what you can find.
If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be?
If I had to be locked in a building overnight, I would choose BAMBAR! Have you had una granita from there? If you have, you will understand why I chose this. Never before had I had one, but when I had my first (grazie Daniele!), I realized I could eat one every day.
Best place for a romantic holiday in Taormina?
babilonia.it
The best place for a romantic holiday in Taormina, in my opinion, is at a hotel on Castelmola. While not quite, Taormina, it overlooks Taormina! In order to make the most of this, you have to pick a hotel with a room that overlooks the seaside from Castelmola. From there, you can see the ocean, Taormina, Etna, and on a clear day, even mainland Italy!
What would you do if you were Mayor for the day?
If I was Mayor for the day, I would force the sellers of the ‘knick-knacks’ off Courso Umberto. While this is something that happens in many cities, I believe it is something that detracts from the beauty of the town.
Earliest Taormina memory?
My earliest Taormina memory is the day after I arrived (after a 21 hour journey, everything was a blur before). After my first day at Babilonia school, I met a group of people from Denmark, Switzerland, Sweden, Germany, and Spain who invited me on a trip to Catania! The spontaneity of this journey, the simplicity, and the uniqueness was something that I will never forget. That journey was also my first true look at the world outside of the United States.
What are your favourite late-night hangouts?
My favorite late-night hangout was the Q Bar. Being from Babilonia school we received a discount, and every night they remembered us and asked us how everything was going. While speaking in Italian, giving us a chance to practice.
Best meal you’ve had in Taormina?
The best meal I had in Taormina was at the Granducca Pizzeria. This was for a number of reasons. The night itself was beautiful, and I went with five of my friends that I made (all from different parts of the world), and we had a table that overlooked the cliffs of Taormina so you could see the ocean and the entire coast. To top it all off they gave us a glass of champagne, and the pizza itself was wonderful! I had the Great Bear pizza, which had a plethora of toppings, including tomatoes, ham, salami, prosciutto, and basil.
If you could buy any building in Taormina, which would it be?
If I could buy any building in Taormina, I would buy the Saracen castle at the crest of the mountain overlooking Taormina. The location is stunning, and the history of the building enchants me.
What is your favourite Taormina discovery?
My favorite Taormina discoveries were when I found the small markets sprinkled throughout the small strebets. These places, especially one on my way home, are special because they provide some of the best food, at the best price that you can find in Taormina. In addition, the workers tend not to speak English, so it gives you the real world practice that you are not able to get on Corso Umberto.
Best advice for students?
babilonia.it
My best advice for students at Babilonia school is to branch out from Corso Umberto. Taormina can seem limited just by walking down Corso Umberto, but once you branch off onto the sides, you can find places that are relatively hidden. Also, take advantage of the opportunities provided to you! There are many economical travel options throughout Sicily, and each city has a unique history, style, and cuisine. Get out there and explore!
where I feel well and have my friends around…and after this experience here, I can definitely say that Lecce in Puglia is home!
First thing you do when you arrive back in Lecce is…
to drink caffè leccese in piazza, ovvio ? , where you can feel the beautiful atmosphere created by the building, sun and people.
What advice would you give to a tourist?
Go with the flow, discover the streets of Lecce at night, buy from the street artists, make friends, eat puccia, take Lecce like a huge free museum…and drink “caffè leccese” ?
italiahomestay.com
If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be?
I would choose Castello Carlo V, because I was there during the night and it was special. This big massive castle seems it’s protecting the city, with huge rooms inside make you feel like you are living in a different time.
Best place for a romantic holiday in Lecce?
One of the huge villas in the historical centre…
What would you do if you were Mayor for the day?
If i could be the Mayor for a day, I would forbid the traffic (even if few) in the old city…and then take a holiday in Lecce to watch the magic atmosphere and how much Lecce is fascinating with “touristic eyes”.
Earliest Lecce memory?
When I arrived at Scuola Mondo Italia, the best school in Lecce, and the big smile of Maria that welcomes you with so much friendship!
If you could buy any building in Lecce, which would it be?
A beautiful villa in the centre with volte a stella, an amazing cortile and a roof top terrace with the view of the Duomo.
What are your favourite late-night hangouts?
Mamma Elvira, Quanto basta, Bar Il Moro…and all pubs around Santa Croce and Santa Chiara area because the atmosphere is great!
italiahomestay.com
What is your favourite Lecce discovery?
A part from “caffè leccese”, the Roman theatre where I attended also a contemporary dance show the same night…even if I still discover news things all the time I am in the centre
Where I feel at ease, I am myself surrounded by friends and family.
First thing you thought when you arrived in Italy?
Coffee! Must get the best coffee in town.
What advice would you give to a tourist?
Don’t act too touristy. Guard your items. Leave the hats and gigantic map/books at home. You can’t get lost in Rome, wherever you go you’ll still be able to find a way back. Go to il Giardino degli Aranci for beautiful views… and learn the correct pronounciation of “Grazie” (hint: change the “e” to an “a” sound!)
Best place for a romantic holiday in Rome?
Rome is fantastic for night walks at Trastevere and the city center, sunsets at Castel Sant’Angelo, make it a point to kiss every time you see a fountain! That makes Rome extra special.
What would you do if you were Mayor for one day?
Fix the traffic system and public transportation. We are living in 2017, it’s time we have an intelligent and fast traffic system. Also, fix the method and bureaucracies in the government sectors. Modernize the system and get efficient people on the job! Move your people. I would also have a “clean up Rome” for the morning, then have a big festival along the corso with food stalls and live music and art and dancers – then of course another clean up!
Earliest Rome memory?
From the films, I thought Rome was very prestigious and clean and the people very friendly. It’s pretty much true, except for the cleanness. For example, Taiwan is super clean but there are no rubbish bins in public! Food for thought it’s the mentality of the people who work together and keep it clean. Always.
Best meal you’ve had in Rome?
Can’t beat Carciofi alla Giudia with a prosecco or an aperol spritz. But roman style beans & cicoria are pretty amazing too! Never had a bad meal, but I’d eat pizza con fiori di zucca anyday! 🙂
If you could buy any building in Rome, which would it be?
The Pantheon! But I would share it with everyone…
What are your favorite late-night hangouts in Rome?
Luppolo Station, 420, Big Mama – all in Trastevere. The ice cream shop in front of my house, too! 🙂
What is your favorite Rome discovery?
The ancient part of the city that you can still visit underground in certain places/churches or museums. Rome feels safe at night: I love walking home from dinner, past the piazzas and the fountains.
Best advice for other students?
Be quick to adapt to the culture and lifestyle of the Italians, we are here in a foreign land, everything is supposed to be different from home: that’s why it is called an ADVENTURE! In terms of language, try to adopt the Italian accent system as best as you can, not easy but once you get the hang at it, it makes everything else so clear, since in Italian the position of an accent can change the meaning of a word (or a sentence), and even raising or lowering the tone of your voice can make a difference between a statement and a question!
Don’t be afraid to speak and make mistakes! It’s the hardest but best way to learn a new language!
First thing you do when you arrive back in Montepulciano, Tuscany?
Go to the beginning of Via di Collazzi and take in the panoramic view of San Biagio and the surrounding countryside – spectacular especially at sunset.
What advice would you give to a tourist?
Stay at least one night in Montepulciano. It is such an atmospheric town especially at night time when the day trippers have left. Enjoy a great meal, walk around and soak in the atmosphere of the ancient streets and buildings.
If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be?
One of the grand Palazzo’s on Piazza Grande, hopefully luxuriously furnished so I could experience life as the de Medici’s and nobles in the 15th century.
Best place for a romantic holiday/ dinner/date in Montepulciano?
Book a hotel/villa with a terrace overlooking the centro storico or the fabulous countryside and enjoy with a glass of vino nobile!
ilsasso.com
What would you do if you were Mayor for the day?
I would suggest organising a festival but there are already many during the year especially in summer.
Earliest Tuscany memory?
Driving through the pouring rain and jumping out of the car and having my photo taken under the Florence signpost as the sun came out – my first time in Italy and we had arrived in Florence, a long held dream realised.
Best meal you’ve had in Tuscany?
Any of the food at Rosso Rubino Trattoria in Montepulciano, they have the best homemade pasta and dolci, the service is very friendly and a brilliant selection of wines from the local producers.
If you could buy any building in Montepulciano, which would it be?
One with a terrace overlooking the valley.
ilsasso.com
What are your favourite late-night hangouts?
Il bar “ Lucevan le stelle”.
What is your favourite Tuscany discovery?
Formaggio pecorino with pear and ginger jam!
Best advice for other students of Italian in Montepulciano at ilSasso.com?
Go into the shops, cafes, restaurants and cantina’s and practice speaking Italian. The townspeople are very happy to let you speak ( no matter how slowly) and will encourage and help you.
